The Mosaics of Ravenna
The great mystery about Ravenna is why it is so far from mainstream touristic itineraries. This tiny town has eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a glorious past. Its 1,500-year-old churches are decorated with best-in-the-West Byzantine mosaics. Ravenna also holds the human remains of Dante Alighieri (they are in here and not in Florence as most people think…).
It is the junction point in history between the collapsed Roman Empire and the middle age, an historic period that lasted four centuries. From the 5th to the 8th century Ravenna was the capital of the Western Roman Empire, of King Theodoric of the Goths and of the Byzantine Empire in Europe. The most important legacy from that period are its astonishing mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries.
This one day walk covers six out of the eight early Christian monuments inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List, plus a view [No. 1] of Theodoric's Palace as we pass by.
2. Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (500 AD)
3. Arian Baptistery (500 AD)
4. Basilica of San Vitale (548 AD)
5. Mausoleum of Galla Placidia (430 AD)
6. Baptistery of Neon (430 AD)
7. Archiepiscopal Chapel (500 AD)
The remaining two (the Mausoleum of Theoderic (520 AD) and the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe (549 AD) are out of the city center and require two or three hours more.
1. Palazzo of Teodoric
The (few) remains of Theodoric's palace, close to Sant’Apolinarre Nuovo
2. Basilica of Sant’Apolinarre nuovo
Built by Theodoric (493-526) next to his palace, it was originally used as a Palatine Church of Arian religion. After the Byzantine reconquest and consecration to the orthodox faith (mid-6th century), the Basilica was dedicated to St. Martin, bishop of Tours. Tradition has it that in 9th century the relics of St. Apollinaris were removed from the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe and transported here. On that occasion, the church was dedicated to Saint Apollinaris and called “Nuovo” (new) in order to differentiate it from the church of the same name in Classe.
Inside the building, it is possible to admire the magnificent mosaic decoration of the original church, documenting the stylistic, iconographical and ideological evolution of Byzantine wall mosaics from the era of Theoderic to that of Justinian.
The 26 christological scenes from the period of Theoderic are one of the biggest monumental cycles and, at the same time, the most ancient original mosaic work on the New Testament of all times.
Note the mosaics depicting Theodoric's palace and compare it with the actual remains just seen.
After the byzantine reconquest, the mosaics were heavily modified to satisfy the new rulers. Just like today’s Photoshop mistakes, some details (such as arms and hands on the columns) were forgotten by inattentive artists!
3. Arian Baptistery
The Arian Baptistery was built in the small square of the church of the Holy Spirit, the former Arian cathedral, at the end of the 5th.C., when Theoderic had already consolidated his dominion and Arianism had become the official religion of the Court.
The building, octagonal in shape and with four small external apses, has sunk about 2.3 meters into the ground. Nothing remains of the various stuccoes and decorations which certainly covered the internal walls. The cupola, instead, is adorned with mosaics depicting the procession of the twelve Apostles and the baptism of Christ, whose naked and young body is immersed in water to the hips.
4. Basilica of San Vitale
The Basilica of San Vitale is one of the most important monuments of Early Christian art in Italy, especially for the splendour of its mosaics. Founded by Julianus Argentarius and commissioned by Bishop Ecclesius, the octagonal church was consecrated by Archbishop Maximian in 548 AD.
The influence of oriental art, a typical feature of Ravenna buildings, plays a dominant role both for the architecture of the basilica, where elements of Eastern art merge with Western tradition, and for its mosaic decoration, that expresses the ideology and religious beliefs of the Justinian era.
The typical division into nave and two aisles is replaced here by a central, octagonal plan, topped by a cupola that rests on eight pilasters and arches. The cupola and the niches were frescoed in 1780 by Bolognese painters Barozzi and Gandolfi and Guarana from Veneto.
On entering the Basilica of San Vitale, the eyes are captured by the elevation and width of spaces, by the stunning mosaic decorations of the apse and by the baroque frescoes of the cupola. It is probably due to this upward thrust that a small and lesser-known treasure often goes unnoticed: a labyrinth is represented on the floor of the presbytery, right in front of the altar.
On following the path of the labyrinth, you may contemplate the altar of San Vitale and some of the most beautiful mosaics of Christendom.
5. The Galla Placidia Mausoleum
Galla Placidia (386-452 AD), sister of the Roman Emperor Honorius who had transferred the Capital of the Western Empire from Milan to Ravenna in 402 AD, built this little Latin cross-shaped Mausoleum around 425-450 AD as her own resting place. The mausoleum was never used for that purpose, though, because the empress died and was buried in Rome in 450 AD.
Now a separate building, the mausoleum was once connected to the south side of the narthex of the close Church of Santa Croce, erected by Galla Placidia between 475 AD and 500 AD.
The outside of the building is very sober compared to the magnificence of the inside, decorated with mosaics made even brighter by the golden light filtering through the alabaster windows. The lower surfaces of the interior are covered with marble slabs, while the upper part of the building – including the walls of the vault, the lunettes and the cupola – is entirely decorated with mosaics. The themes represented in the mosaic decoration show traces of the influence of both Hellenic-Roman and Christian tradition and aim at representing the victory of eternal life over death from different perspectives.
The atmosphere of the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia is undoubtedly magical. The countless stars of the cupola have deeply stirred the imagination of many visitors of Ravenna, for instance Cole Porter who, during his honeymoon in the city, was so impressed by the starry sky of the small mausoleum that he wrote his famous song Night and Day.
6. Neonian Baptistery
The Baptistery of Neon is one of the most ancient monuments of the city of Ravenna. It was commissioned by Bishop Urso and probably built at the beginning of the 5th century like the nearby cathedral. During the episcopacy of Neon
(450 – 475 AD), the baptistery underwent many restoration works that ended with the reconstruction of the cupola and the realization of the interior decoration, still present today.
The interior of the baptistery consists of two rows of arches put one above the other. Its decoration is divided into three tiers, the lower one covered with marble pieces, the middle one with stucco-works, while the upper section is adorned with mosaics of Hellenic-Roman influence. At the center of the dome, a big medallion frames the Baptism of Christ, depicted as a young man immersed to the hips in the sheer waters of the river Jordan. This is one of the oldest mosaic scenes of the Baptism of Christ housed inside a monumental building.
The images of the twelve Apostles, divided into two groups led by Saint Peter and Paul, revolve around the central medallion, standing out against a blue background. A second ring shows eight exedrae that cover thrones and altars and symbolize the concept of heavenly city and the spread of the Christian doctrine.
The octagonal design of the building, employed in virtually all Early Christian baptisteries, symbolizes the seven days of the week plus the Day of the Resurrection and Eternal Life.
7. Archiepiscopal Chapel
The Oratory of S. Andrea or Archiepiscopal Chapel is the only existing archiepiscopal chapel of the early christian era that has been preserved intact to the present day. It was erected by bishop Peter II (494-519 AD) during the reign of Theodoric as a private oratory for catholic bishops, at the time when Arianism was the main religion of the court. Originally dedicated to Christ, the chapel was then renamed and dedicated to Saint Andrew, whose relics were transported from Constantinople to Ravenna around the mid-6th C. AD.
The cross-shaped chapel is preceded by a small barrel-vaulted rectangular vestibule, entirely covered with marble in its lower part and decorated with mosaics at the top. The iconography of the mosaic decoration is of great interest and aims at glorifying the figure of Christ from a clearly anti-Arian point of view. The representation of Christ as a warrior, his monogram and his face as well as the images of Martyrs, Apostles and Evangelists frequently appear in a dominant position in various places of the chapel, thus underlining the concept of the glorification of Jesus and reaffirming the principles of Catholic orthodoxy.
X Hotel Bezzi
1 Palazzo of
Teodoric
2 Basilica of
Sant’ Apollinare
Nuovo
3 Arian Baptistery
Neonian
Baptistery 6
Archiepiscopal Chapel 7
4 Basilica of San Vitale
and
5 Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
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